Part of the challenge and entertainment of backpacking is being creative with your food. When you are hiking a trail that is not very challenging or it is not a long trip you can afford to get more creative.Is there a reason that you can’t enjoy the world’s best comfort food out on the trail? I don’t see why not. I am not talking about easy mac either. I am talking about made from scratch macaroni and cheese.
This is basically how you do it: make a white sauce by browning the butter and flour, add milk, let it thicken, add cheddar cheese and mix with macaroni or shells. The ingredients you need are butter, flour, whole milk, cheddar cheese and whole wheat macaroni.
I did not have a bowel movement the next day because of all the cheese but that might be a plus if you don’t like going in the woods.
These pictures were taken during a 40 mile out and back in Davy Crockett State Park in Texas
This isn’t the type of review The Muddy Boots usually does but I enjoyed this product so much I wanted to share it. If the time calls for a little caffeine, your choices don’t look too good. Maybe your at a truck stop with a few hours of driving between it and the trailhead and you need a little boost. What to you go for? The less than tasty energy drink with crazy amounts of sugar? Maybe that gas station coffee that tastes like it was filtered through a pair of socks? Well I found a great alternative: Vitaminwater Connect. Not only does it have 100mg of caffeine per 20 oz bottle, but it has some vitamin c and electrolytes. The best part is it actually tastes pleasant (if you appreciate the Vitaminwater taste). I’m not sure I would call the flavor black cherry-lime, but it’s good. All that in a price cheaper than most energy drinks and you have a good beverage. Muddy Boots approved.
Many “storm-proof” lighters on the market today have several flaws:
- They are expensive.
- They may not actually be “storm-proof” as water or blown snow can render them useless.
- They are a pain to refuel.
- They are not reliable.
The problem is these lighters are actually very convenient when the time comes but with this list of defects it doesn’t make them very attractive. Similarly, the standard bic has it limitations when out in the backcountry. It may be cheap and reliable but in a little wind they can be fairly useless. In comes the Soto Pocket Torch which takes the good features of a storm-proof lighter and mixes them with disposable lighter simplicity.
Specs:
Weight: 1.8 oz (50 g) (without disposable lighter)
Flame temperature: 2,300 F (1300 C)
Burning Time: Approx 20 min (debatable)
Fuel: Disposable lighter (square style, not bic)
Igniter: Piezoelectric
MSRP: $20
Construction: The basic idea is that it takes the butane from a standard lighter and adds some sort of magnifying regulator and a piezoelectric spark. Incredibly simple actually.
Pros: This may be everything the common hiker needs in a lighter. It isn’t expensive especially compared to competitors. It probably isn’t as “storm-proof” as some (I haven’t tested this but I can speculate) but it does work well in wind which is my biggest need. It is incredibly easy to refuel. Finally, if it were to ever break you are still left with a full functioning disposable lighter and a piezoelectric spark (which will start your alcohol stoves just fine).
Cons: On the packaging it warns it may not ignite at higher elevations (above 5,000 ft) or colder temperatures. I think this mimics the conditions a disposable lighter won’t work. I would guess, it actually will work above 5,000 ft (I have read 9,000 is what some readers found to be the working limit) but not optimally. This may prove the lighters biggest drawback and I will further test these limitations, especially colder temperatures. I have read some negative reviews about the durability of this product but have yet to experience any of them. I have also read finding the right square lighter is difficult but, again, I have yet to experience this. I will continue testing and report any problems I have with it. To me the biggest drawback in the burning time. Soto claims it increases the normal burning time of the disposable lighter, but I have no idea how that can be the case. I haven’t put it to a strict test, but it seems the pocket torch uses fuel fairly quick. On a recent two night camping trip I used up about half of the fuel which seems like much more than I would normally use.
Final Verdict: I really like this lighter. At first I had my doubts that it was too good to be true but these doubts have been buried. It may not be great for a Rocky Mountain bound hiker but for an east coast trotter like myself it is perfect. I will say that if I was worried about every ounce I would leave this at home. The weight is small but it is not a necessary on the trail. A thru-hiker could (and should) just rely on their bic. With that said, why not carry this. It is definitely cool and actually makes things like lighting your alcohol stove a little easier as the flame works pointed down much better than your bic. It is bigger than your average lighter which I found made it easier to find in my pack as well. In fact, I use this around the house more than I thought I would too. This is something to think about this holiday season.
I was recently in the market for a fairly specific tent: one that offers good protection from a rain storm, not too heavy, has enough room for two people, a dog, and their gear while keeping the cost down as much as possible. I landed on the Marmot Haven.
Specs: (taken from backcountry.com)
Material: (Floor) 40D 100% nylon 3000mm; (Fly) 40D 100% nylon ripstop w/ silicon & PU coating 1800mm
Pole: 9mm DAC NSL aluminum
Dimensions: 100 x 106 x 45(h)in , 56sq ft
Packed Size: 6 x 21in
Weight: (Reg) 4lb 11oz (2126g); (Floorless) 3lb 15oz (1786g)
MSRP: $200
Construction: This tent is a single wall octagonal design with a single arching pole. It has a removable floor but no bug protection of any kind. Ventilation is achieved through two ceiling vents and something marmot calls a “perimeter vent” that is raised edges of the tent. This is a non-freestanding design that takes a minimum of 6 stakes to put up.
Set-up: This tent is very easy to set up as long as you don’t follow the manufacture’s instructions. Seriously, they recommend to stake out the perimeter and then clip the pole in. This tent is so big that it is very hard to reach the middle clip on the pole without stepping on the tent or falling into it. Also, guessing the tension on the stakes before the pole is clipped in is harder than you would think in this method. With that said here’s my way:
Put the pole in first (this is doable with or without the floor in as the tent has webbing going form one grommet to the other).
Put a stake in the ground and attach it to the middle stake loop (the one perpendicular to the pole).
Hold the opposite side’s middle stake loop (that is, opposite to the one staked to the ground) and pull it directly out and stake it.
Stake out the other 4 loops and tighten everything and you’re done. I’ve found it isn’t necessary to stake the loops where the pole is unless in high winds.
Pros:
Value: At the $140 price I paid it is a bargain. I won’t say there aren’t better tents out there but they will be 2 to 3 times more expensive. That price includes the DAC NSL pole too.
Space: The 56 square feet of floor space this tent offers is enormous. Some may say the usable space is less and, while the edges are close to the wall of the tent, I still found I could stuff gear there. I guess it just depends on your definition of usable. Whatever you say, I would much rather live in this tent than many other tents out there. I would never use my alcohol stove in my Big Agnes SL1 but I wouldn’t think twice in the Haven.
Removable floor: Having the option of removing the floor I can cut weight if needed and use my own light weight tyvek ground sheet. Without the floor I don’t have to worry about my restless puppy’s sharp toenails ruining the tent either.
Ventilation. I was really amazed with the ceiling vents. They are staggered such that each vent is opposite a wall instead of the other vent so that, when a gust comes, you can feel the wind coming through the vent, hitting the opposite wall, and swirling around inside the tent. The design also is closable with a zipper on the inside and is kept open with a plastic length held in place with velcro. Very cool and very usable.
Cons:
Condensation: This would be a con for every single wall tent just by the nature of the design. In my three nights in this tent, I have yet to have any condensation. However, under the right conditions I expect some even with all the venting.
No bug protection: This limits where the tent can be taken or leaves one to rig some way to keep the bugs out. Sleeping in a headnet is a minimum if bugs are present. Why not add a little bug mesh skirt around the tent edges, Marmot? This would add only little weight and really help where this tent can be used.
Weight: While this tent may be lighter than some fully featured double wall tents, it’s no ultra-light rig (and doesn’t cost what one of those would either). Swapping out the 12 aluminum stakes included with the tent for 6 (or 8 if in higher winds) titanium stakes would be a start to cut weight.
Too much webbing: I calculated 31 feet of 3/4 inch grossgrain webbing. The stake out loops are long pieces of webbing designed to double back with a slider. Why not just stick with the traditional cord with tensioners. I estimated if they used 1/2” webbing and changed the stake out method they could cut 3 oz off the weight of the tent. I’m sure packing 31 feet of wet webbing after a rain storm isn’t too light either.
Packed size: The stuff sack for this tent is enormous. I believe the tent could fit in a smaller sack that would save space in the bottom of a pack. Leaving the floor at home would grant an even nicer packed size.
Unnecessary aesthetics: I’m not too big on the multicolored design. I really wish Marmot left the tent a solid color and left the swirl effect off. I only see this as adding unnecessary seams which means more weight (however small) and more places to rip or leak.
Final Verdict: The design of this tent is really a throwback to the way backpacking tents were decades ago. Proven or dated design? Whatever it is, I say it is cool. There is something inherently rugged about the design of a single wall, floorless tent. With that said I wouldn’t recommend this as someone’s first or primary tent. The value of this tent makes it a good grab for the do-it-yourself crowd, though. I was a little harsh in the cons of this tent but most of them are somewhat correctable and for the low price there is some room for improvements like better stakes and some sewn in mesh. Maybe there is a “this old tent” style make-over (and review) in the future.
In Part II I discussed the parts I chose for my build. Now that the hard and stressful part of deciding on the right parts is over, it’s time to put the pieces together. This should be a lot of fun so relax, grab a beer (maybe a fat tire), turn on some music, and enjoy it. Many people worry about doing things the right way. Even though this is important, don’t let it prevent you from doing your own assembly or maintenance. Some of my friends have asked me to help them fix their bike and the response I always get when I show them what to do is, “really, that was it?” My point here is don’t be intimidated, just give it a shot. Bike shops charge a lot for even the most basic flat tire (there’s one near me that charges $25 bucks!) so it actually pays to fix your own bike. With all that said, let’s begin.
Tools. These can get expensive. If you have the option in your town, find a place that offers everything you may need to work on your bike. My university has a work bench I can use for a minimal cost that has a good variety of tools. It’s important to remember that parts like bottom brackets, cassettes, and cranks, need special tools. Be sure to check what your specific part needs before you buy or use a random tool from a shop. Even if you find a place to work on your bike, I would still recommend a few basic tools that will allow you to do simple stuff at your home and while you ride:
- chain tool
- spoke wrench
- degreaser
- grease (phil wood’s water proof)
- chain lube (finish line’s Dry)
- oil (phil wood’s tenacious oil)
- pump
- patch kit (rema tip top)
- tire levers (quik stik)
- multi tool (park rescue multi tool)
- repair stand (park home mechanic bike repair stand)
This kit will allow you to do the basic clean and tune-up. I have included the particular product I use in parenthesis. I will add that a repair stand isn’t completely necessary, but I find it very helpful and worth the cost. Also, there are three different lubricants on this list, each with a different purpose. Check out this video to understand each. Finally, I take the pump, tire levers, patch kit, and multi tool with me every time I ride. When I’m touring, I take even more but those are the bare necessities.
Now what about the actual assembly process? This may vary depending on the specific part you picked so I won’t go into the specifics. Here’s a few tips though:
- Don’t put the fork and headset on yourself, take it to a bike shop. This process isn’t hard, but can be done easily with the right tools at a bike shop. Plus, it involves cutting and that can be easy to mess up. A bike shop did mine for $15. Be sure to tell them how many spacers you want on your threadless headset (and more is better than less). While you’re at the bike shop see if your bottom bracket threads need chasing. Mine were fine but this, again, is something your bike shop will be able to do easily.
- I hand built my wheelset. I would recommend not doing this. I enjoyed learning and don’t regret doing it, but it was very time consuming especially for a first timer like me.
- The front and rear derailleurs may take some time to set up, just be patient.
- Don’t try to do it all at once. The temptation is do it quickly so you can ride, but remember, the more tired you are the more mistakes you’ll make. This can lead to frustrations later.
- After 10 hours or so of riding you will want to readjust everything. This includes hubs. derailleurs, and wheels among others.
In addition to these tips, here are some resources I used and should be helpful in answering specific questions. Remember that all the parts you buy come with an instruction manual. That is a great place to start, but sometimes a video or book with more explanation is more helpful.
- In case you are still desperate to build wheels, I used “The Art of Wheelbuilding” by Gerd Schraner. This book was all I needed to learn to build wheels.
- A good basic repair guide is the “Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair” by C. Calvin Jones. This book is helpful and a good thing to have near the bike stand but the information can generally be found online for free.
- bikewagon’s youtube channel
- sramtech’s youtube channel
- parktool’s online repair guide
- biketutor.com
This is a good place to start your building. Feel free to leave any specific questions you may have as comments. Most of the tools and books I have mentioned here can be bought at REI or amazon. If you do go to these sites, please consider using the link on your right and your purchase will help support the site Will and I work so hard to provide.
Stay tuned for the final part where I wrap up the bike building process and discuss how my bike rides.
The best Pepsi I ever had was a cold day in November near Iron Mountain Gap in NC on the Appalachian Trail.
Chris and I had been dropped off on Highway 19 near Elk Park and hiked 11 miles to the Stan Murray Shelter. We spent the night in gusty 14 degree weather. That morning it was so cold I couldn’t get my water to boil for my oatmeal so I downed what I could, put on my frozen boots, and headed off. We hiked 18 miles that day over glorious balds dusted with snow where cold air blew defiantly against our bodies. We stopped a few times to melt snow and enjoy some green tea that Chris had brought. After going though Carver’s Gap we hiked to the top of Roan High Knob where the highest shelter on the AT is located.
Our goal was Iron Mountain Gap where we had strategically parked our car the day before. The last few miles were very tough though. Partly because we had struggled to find water that was not frozen but also because our bodies were simply running out of fuel. We knew we didn’t have dinner for that night and it was already getting a little dark. With the temperature hovered around 30 degrees, all we could think about were our aching legs and the reward of roast beef sandwiches from Arby’s once we got to the car and drove to Elizabethton.
After going over hill after hill and longingly trying to see an end to our hike, I strangely saw a little color on the side of the trail. Chris was ahead of me so I yelled up to him, “Hey, there is a fucking six pack of Pepsi right here.” Magically they were not frozen and must have been placed there recently by a trail angel.
We each drank one and left the other cans for any other weary travelers. We felt rejuvenated when the caffeine and sugar coursed through our veins. It instantly made us feel incredible and it was just what we needed. We giddily hiked a few more miles and made it back to my trusty Blazer.
That was the best Pepsi I ever had.
Click to expand the image:
While this product may not be new, some may not have heard of it because it isn’t available in many backpacking stores. The Ursack is a claimed-to-be-bear-proof stuff sack. Seems neat, right? Maybe, but before you rush out and speed a hefty dollar, keep reading.
On my AT thru-hike in 2006 I ran across a few people that had them. Tomato, a fellow thru-hiker from Portland, had hiked the PCT and explained the Ursack to me. A lot of this review comes from his experience.
The biggest problem with the Ursack is that it fails to satisfy the correct need. For the Appalachian Mountains, bears aren’t an enormous problem so the only need for this bag is for rodents. I remember a guy having an Ursack and he just left his bag on the floor of the shelter while everyone else hung theirs. All night the mice were scratching and chewing at the bag keeping us all up. Come morning, his bag was fine just like everyone else’s. For places like the Rocky Mountains where bears are a bigger issue this bag may fail to replace a real bear canister. I say may because some parks specifically don’t have them on their approved canister list. That is, in some parks where bear canisters are required, you can get fined for using an Ursack. I’ll just leave it as that and let you be the judge on how bear resistant it really is.
Final Verdict: If you are on the east coast spend the $65 bucks somewhere else and hang your food like a normal person. If you are on the west coast, buy a real bear canister when one is required. To read more, check the Ursack Website.
If you live in the city then rock climbing is a great hobby to get into. There is bound to be a rock gym in your area (check this list to be sure) and all you need is about $200 worth of equipment to get started. You can rent equipment, and for your first time this may be best, but if you go on a regular basis then your investment will pay for itself in no time.
Basic top roped sport climbing equipment you need:
Harness $40
Shoes $70 -$120
Belay Device $10
Carabiner $15
Chalk and Chalk Bag $30
All of this equipment can be purchased on REI, our preferred online retailer. There is a link on the right that will take you there and if you buy something it will help support our blog. REI is a coop that you can join for $20 which entitles you to discounts and a dividend that ends up to be about 10% of your purchases. It is the best way to buy equipment.
Never been climbing and don’t know the technical aspect? Gyms cater to every level climber. They offer courses that will teach you the fundamentals of safe climbing such as the necessary knots and belay techniques. If you are still unsure, try bouldering. It is climbing done on much shorter (but harder) routes so you only need shoes and chalk. Bouldering can also be done solo while if you engage in sport climbing a partner required.
Joining a rock gym has many more benefits than just the ability to climb. Some have weight rooms and cardio equipment that you can use. So you can put on some muscle if you want. If you wanted to join a gym why not just join a rock gym? They also usually have a better community feel to them compared to traditional gyms. Instead of juiced up muscle freaks climbers are friendly people always willing to teach you techniques or drink beers with. Lets face it if you work out just for huge muscles you usually are a little weird or just a douche bag. Sometimes they have yoga too. It is also a great place to take a date or even find girls. I like my girl to be able to kick ass.
As of Sept 22, 2010, autumn is officially here and with it brings changing leaves, dropping temperatures, and, of course, new fall products. What better way to welcome fall than to drool over gear. Here’s a look at some of this fall’s most drool worthy products.
Want a jacket that meshes the warming characteristics of synthetic down with the mobility characteristics of polartec power stretch? What about some cool colors and technical look? Marmot just made the perfect jacket for you too.
Getting a great glove is hard, but it seems like Arc’teryx has thought of everything with this glove. In fact, this glove looks like it belongs on a space shuttle more than a ski slope.
Wool is cool. There is no punchline to that. Before there was fancy synthetic fibers there was wool so go retro. The fabric is described as “wool flannel with a bit of stretch.” Wow.
Patagonia Down Sweater – Special Edition
Patagonia seems to have created the holy grail of warmth-to-weight ratios with an ultralight ripstop nylon and 900-full-power down. Act fast because this 10 oz monster is limited supply.
Patagonia Capilene 2, 3, and 4
With the four level system, achieving the perfect warmth you thought only a mother could give is simple. The 2, 3, and 4 baselayers have been updated for this year with better fabric characteristics and design details.
Outdoor Research Radient Hybrid Hoody and Radiant Beanie
OR designed these with two types of fleece to maximize the balance between warmth and mobility. The perfect piece to put that glide in your stride on the trail.
REI Shuksan Earflap Cap with eVent Fabric
Waterproof eVent + Primaloft = badass. Every time. Throw in earflaps and you have a pretty rad hat that is perfect for cold and rainy days. More style might be nice, but the sleek black look is in.
This jacket may have the perfect mesh of usability and style. There’s just something cool about a hoody that this jacket does right.
This list is just a few of the cool products of fall ’10. A piece of gear you love not make the list? Let me know. I compiled this list by researching online. I don’t own anything on the list (at least not yet), so this just stands as a prospective products list. Enjoy the cool weather!
In part I, I discussed the basic build: a geared, 29”, full rigid, steel frame mountain bike. I purchased the frame so now it is time for me to pick out what parts I want. Before I explain, here’s the complete list:
Frameset
Frame: Salsa El Mariachi 18”
Fork: Salsa CroMoto Grande 29er
Drivetrain
Crankset: Truvativ Stylo 3.3 175mm 44-32-22T
Bottom Bracket:Truvative GXP
Chain:SRAM PC-971
Cassette:SRAM PG-980
Front Derailleur: Shimano XT M771
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.9, Long Cage
Components
Handlebar: Salsa Pro Moto Low Rise XC Bar
Headset: Cane Creek S-8
Stem: Salsa Pro Moto Stem 80mm
Grips: Salsa Pepperjack Grips
Front Brake: Avid Elixir 5 w/ 160mm rotors
Rear Brake: Avid Elixir 5 w/ 160mm rotors
Shifters: SRAM X.9 Trigger
Seatpost: Salsa Shaft Seatpost
Seat Clamp: Salsa Lip Lock (included w/ frame)
Saddle: WTB Rocket V
Wheels
Front Hub: Chris King ISO Front Disk
Rear Hub: Chris King ISO Rear Disk
Quick Release Skewers: Salsa Flip-off
Spokes: Wheelsmith DB 14g
Nipples: Wheelsmith 14g
Rims: Salsa Semi 29er
Front Tire: WTB WeirWolf 29 x 2.55 LT Race
Rear Tire: WTB Vulpine 29 x 2.1
An experienced bicycle builder knows parts and their mantra is “pick two: cheap, light, or durable.” I picked light and durable but no matter what you should buy parts with a budget in mind. Remember that you can still get a good part without buying the top of the line. In fact, much of the time the biggest difference between a middle range part and a high end part is just weight. The importance of weight depends on how you ride and what kind of rider you are. For the casual rider, I would say durability is a bigger concern. A cheap part might mechanically work as well as a more expensive part but the sacrifice is durability as the cheap part will be made with more plastics and cheaper bearings. Here’s a breakdown of why I got the parts mentioned above.
Frameset
I mentioned my frame in Part I, but I didn’t mention fit. This is very important and shouldn’t be overlooked. Some think it is so important they will get a frame custom built to their body measurements. To get a idea how to pick out the perfect size look at this website. The frame you buy will have a long list of specs that dictate the size of parts you get and it is important to refer back to this list in the rest of the build process. One of those numbers is the size in your front suspension fork. This should be followed or the geometry in the frame will be off.
Drivetrain
For this I decided to buy a pre-packaged SRAM kit that included everything but the front derailleur. This saved a little money. One can get lost in shimano versus sram ideologies. Just the name alone doesn’t signify quality. I hate it when I go into a bike shop and hear the salesman doing that “all shimano” routine as a proof of the quality components on some $200 bike. It’s important to know the groupset hierarchy. A good explanation is here.
The first choice is how do you want your gearing set up? You could go single speed or geared. If you go geared do you want a triple, double, or single chainring? A nine or ten speed cassette? If you go single speed, what size gears? These are all questions you will want to answer based on riding style. I choose the traditional mountain bike setup, a 3×9.
I think for a good compromise between price and durability is the Shimano XT or SRAM X.9 lines. Which is better? Who knows. I know the X.9 is cheaper than the XT parts, but this article (from 2008) gives reason to believe the XT is better. You can find followers that swear by each one. I went SRAM because I got a good deal on the kit. It didn’t include a front derailleur and I got a Shimano XT. Why? I got a good deal. They are different, but you cant go wrong with either.
Components
Many things in this category are based on preference. The headset and brakes are not solely based on preference though. I think the cane creek headsets are a great bargain. The S-3 is a really good headset for the price. I got the S-8 because I found a good deal online, but the only difference is it uses stainless steel bearings as compared to “black oxide” steel. Many love the Chris King headsets, but the price just doesn’t seem worth it (and I love the CK hubs too). I wouldn’t go cheap here or you will be sacrificing durability.
The brakes are another important decision. The types include calliper, cantilever, V-brakes, or disk brakes. An explanation of each is here. The style of riding you do depicts the type of brake. For my mountain bike I wanted a disk brake (actually my frame dictated it), but I had to decide mechanical or hydraulic. I decided on hydraulic because I’ve never had them and wanted to learn. I really like the feel they offer but they can be a headache for a beginner and I expect constant maintenance in the future. To avoid this I might recommend going with a good mechanical disk like the Avid BB7s. I have used both now and the BB7s will satisfy all your brakes needs (unless you ride strict downhill maybe). My brakes actually came with the drivetrain kit I bought.
Wheels
I choose Chris King hubs for their long lasting durability. For best value, I would choose a Shimano XT hub. They don’t have sealed bearings like the Kings and require more work down the road (I just repacked the bearings in my touring bike which has XT hubs) but are half the price and work very well. I do like the 72 engagement points on the kings compared to the 36 on most hubs though and the ratcheting sound is distinct to the Kings as well.
Rims are very important also. Without going into detail on the wheel building process (see part III), a cheap wheel will lead to frustrations later. I used the Salsa rims because I have had good experiences with them in the past. I had to decide whether to go with the 30mm wide Semi 29er or the 35mm wide Gordo models. I’m still not sure which is best for my purpose. The wider rim will allow a lower tire pressure which allows the tire to soak up those bumps even more and increase surface area of the tire in contact with the ground. Adding rotational weight on an already large and heavy wheel isn’t good though. The only way I would know which is best is to ride both, which I haven’t. Maybe someone out there can help answer this.
Finally a word on online sources. I used the following sites to purchase these parts:
Price Point: The cheapest site, however, I found they didn’t have some of the specific parts I was looking for. You can find great deals on last years model which may not be any different. I bought simple things like cables, bleed kit, and a few tools from them.
Speedgoat Bicycles: Decent prices and good inventory. I got my frame and many parts from them.
Ride-This: A smaller online store that still had decent parts and great service. I got my hubs and wheel building necessities from them (when they were having an american made sale) since I needed help with the spoke calculations (more on this in part III). I will say they screwed up my order but were very willing to make things right.
Stay tuned because, in part III, I will talk about the actual assembly process.
